A reversible market bag is useful precisely because it is uncomplicated: two fabric shells, strong handles, and a base that has enough depth for a loaf of bread or a small bundle of groceries. Linen gives it a quiet, softened surface, while cotton canvas makes a more workmanlike version. A lighter fabric can be used for the lining, provided it is firmly woven and not fragile.
This pattern makes a medium-sized bag with a squared base. The measurements are easy to alter, but make one at the stated size first so the order of construction is clear.
Materials and measurements
You will need:
- 50 cm of medium-weight linen or cotton canvas, at least 90 cm wide
- 50 cm of lightweight lining fabric, at least 90 cm wide
- Two lengths of woven cotton tape, each 70 cm long, or two fabric strips for making handles
- Matching sewing thread
- Paper, pencil, ruler, scissors, pins or clips, and an iron
The finished bag will be approximately 40 cm wide, 41 cm high, and 10 cm deep, depending on the fabric and seam allowance used.
For the outer bag, cut two rectangles measuring 44 cm wide by 48 cm high. Cut two matching rectangles from the lining fabric. These measurements include a 1 cm seam allowance at the sides and bottom, with the top edge finished separately.
At the lower corners of each rectangle, mark a 5 cm square. Cut these squares away. The missing corners will later be opened and stitched across to form the boxed base. Keep the four layers together while marking if your fabric allows, or make a paper pattern first.
If you prefer a fabric handle, cut two strips measuring 10 cm by 70 cm. Fold each strip in half lengthways and press. Open it, fold both long edges into the centre crease, then fold again and stitch along both long edges. Woven tape can be used without this preparation.
Photo by Lucas George Wendt on Unsplash.
Prepare the fabric
Wash and dry linen or cotton in the same way you expect to treat the finished bag. This removes some of the later shrinkage and gives a more reliable finished size. Press the fabric before cutting; a smooth fold is much easier to measure than a rumpled one.
Mark the wrong side of each piece lightly with tailor’s chalk or a removable pencil. Keep the outer pieces and lining pieces in separate piles. If the fabric has a noticeable stripe, check that both pieces run in the same direction.
A 1 cm seam allowance is used throughout. If you prefer a wider allowance, add it consistently to every piece and trim only where necessary. Inconsistent allowances are more troublesome than a narrow or wide allowance used carefully.
1. Sew the outer bag
Place the two outer pieces right sides together, matching the side edges and the bottom edge. Pin or clip the sides and the short sections along the bottom, leaving the cut-out corner squares open for now.
Stitch both side seams and the bottom seam with a straight stitch. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam. For linen or a loosely woven fabric, sew a second line of stitching just inside the first, or finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch. The second method is particularly useful if the fabric sheds.
Press the seams open, or press them towards one side if the fabric responds better that way. Pressing now will make the next step more exact.
To square the base, reach into one lower corner and bring the side seam directly over the bottom seam. The cut edges should form a straight line across the corner, with no twist in the fabric. Pin the opening closed and stitch across it with a 1 cm seam allowance. Repeat on the other corner.
The bag now has a shallow, flat base. Press the boxed corners towards the bottom of the bag. Do not turn the outer bag right side out yet.
2. Reinforce and position the handles
Find the top edge of the outer bag and mark the handle positions. On each side, place one handle end 10 cm in from the side seam. The handle should form a long loop, with both ends on the same side of the bag. Check that the loop is not twisted before pinning.
Allow about 15 cm of each handle end to extend below the top edge. This gives enough material for a secure attachment. Baste the handles in place with a narrow seam allowance, keeping the raw top edges even.
For stronger handles, stitch a rectangle around each pair of handle ends, then sew a cross from corner to corner inside the rectangle. The reinforcement should be completed before the lining is attached. Use a slightly shorter stitch length for this area, and sew slowly through the layers.
If using fabric handles, make sure the folded edges face consistently. Woven tape can be positioned with either face outward, but check for a central fold or finished edge that you wish to keep visible.
Photo by Yaqing Wei on Unsplash.
3. Sew the lining
Place the two lining pieces right sides together. Stitch the side seams and bottom seam as you did for the outer bag, but leave an opening of about 15 cm in the centre of the bottom seam. This opening is needed for turning the finished bag right side out.
Backstitch at both ends of the opening so it will not spread while the bag is turned. Press the seams, then box the two lower corners in the same way as the outer bag.
The lining does not need to be turned right side out at this stage. Keep it with its wrong side facing outward, so that the right sides of the lining and outer bag can be brought together correctly in the next step.
4. Join the two layers
Turn the outer bag right side out. Leave the lining with its wrong side outward and place it over the outer bag. The two bags should now sit inside one another with their right sides facing each other. Align the side seams and the top edges carefully.
Pin or clip around the entire top edge. The handle loops will be sandwiched between the outer fabric and lining. Stitch around the top with a 1 cm seam allowance, taking care not to catch the loose sections of the handles in the seam.
Sew slowly over the handle areas. If the fabric is thick there, use the hand wheel to cross the thickest points rather than forcing the needle through at speed. Check the seam from the inside before trimming anything.
Trim bulky corners and reduce the seam allowance slightly where the handles are enclosed, but do not cut into the stitching. Clip small notches around the curved transition at the side seams if the top edge does not lie flat. Press the top seam towards the lining.
5. Turn and close the opening
Reach through the opening in the lining and gently pull the whole bag right side out. Bring out the corners with a blunt turning tool, knitting needle, or the closed end of a pencil. Work gently; sharp points can push through linen and leave a permanent mark.
Press the top edge flat, rolling the seam slightly towards the lining so that it does not show on the outer side. At the lining opening, turn the raw edges in by 1 cm and press. Close the opening with a narrow machine stitch, or use small ladder stitches if you want the repair to be less visible.
For a crisp top edge, stitch around the bag 2 to 3 mm from the upper seam. This secures the seam allowance and gives the bag a settled edge. A second row of stitching, placed 6 mm below the first, is optional but can make the top feel more finished.
Photo by K Adams on Unsplash.
Finishing and use
Give the bag a final pressing, paying attention to the boxed corners and the handle joins. Turn it several times to make sure both fabrics sit evenly and that no section of the lining is caught in a side seam.
Before carrying a heavy load, inspect the handle reinforcement and the bottom corners. The handles should rise without pulling the top edge into folds. If the bag will regularly carry dense or angular items, add a removable base insert made from a piece of stiff felt or folded fabric. Keep the insert loose so the bag remains reversible and can be washed more easily.
Useful mistakes to avoid
- Cutting the handles too short: A handle should have enough length to sit comfortably over the shoulder, not only in the hand.
- Skipping the pressing: Pressing each seam before the next construction step helps the layers align and makes the finished bag less bulky.
- Boxing the corners unevenly: Match the side and bottom seams precisely before stitching across each opening. Unequal corners can make the bag lean.
- Forgetting the lining opening: Leave the turning gap in the lining bottom, not in the outer fabric, where it would be more noticeable.
- Sewing over twisted handles: Lay the bag flat before attaching them and trace each loop from one end to the other.
- Using a very loose weave for the lining: A lining that frays heavily may pull away from the top seam. Choose a firmly woven cloth or finish its raw edges before assembly.
The finished bag can be turned inside out whenever the other fabric suits the day better. With use, linen will soften and develop a more relaxed shape, while a canvas outer layer will retain a little more structure. Either way, the enclosed seams and reinforced handles keep the simple pattern suitable for ordinary work.